Here I am replacing a very used set of Tokico Illuminas
with KYB AGX struts. The old struts were shot due to a poor choice
of boots. These are just notes and pictures and not all the information
you need to safely remove and replace the struts. It should help
though.
New struts and boots
You may want to attempt to loosen the top strut bolt before jacking up the car. This is the bolt located under the strut tower cover and is a 19mm bolt. If the assembly moves when you turn the bolt, it can be removed later. Only loosen this bolt a small amount, under no circumstances should you remove this bolt at this time. Jack up the car, and remove the wheel.
Rear Struts:
Rear strut assembly (spring, housing and strut) before removing:
Start by removing the anti-roll bar that connects to the strut housing.
Then remove the brake line 'C' clip, and brake line from
the caliper. Hang the brake line out of the way.
Remove the speed sensor cable, but do not remove the speed
sensor.
Loosen the top four bolts that hold the strut in place,
and then remove the large lower bolts.
The assembly can now be removed after removing the top
four bolts. You will have to push down on the rotor/hub to get
enough clearance to remove the strut housing assembly. It's a good
idea to put some sort of rag (underwear) to protect the CVT boot.
If you loosened the top strut bolt (19mm) before, it will
make the next step easier. If you are removing stock springs, you
will need a spring compressor. Please be careful as there
can be a large amount of energy stored in the spring! With the
spring compressor installed, remove the top 19mm bolt and spring.
Removing the gland nut can be difficult. Soaking it in WD40 or other
penetrating lubricant can help. Then a pipe wrench and vice can be used
to remove the nut. I choose to paint the old components, and then install
the new strut.
Pour a small amount of oil into the housing, and install the new strut. The
oil should take up the space between the strut and the housing. Make
sure not to over-fill it since you will need some space to tighten down the
gland nut.
Then install a new boot.
Next the spring.
Lubricate the top piece.
Install the top using the 19mm bolt and spring compressor
(if necessary). Make sure to point the top mount piece toward the
large bolt holes on the strut housing. Tighten the bolt using a
torque wrench and vice to hold the top.
Install the rear strut by pushing down on the hub/rotor
and move the assembly into place. Hand tighten the top four bolts.
Install the anti-roll bar to the strut housing.
Install the brake line and speed sensor line.
Don't forget the 'C' clamp on the brake line. Tighten
the large bottom two bolts to 180ft-lb. Tighten the top four strut
assembly bolts to specification.
Front Struts:
Here is the old assembly in place.
The first step is to remove the anti-roll bar hook up to the strut housing. This
can be done in two places. I found it easier to reach the bottom location. You
will most likely need a hex driver and 14mm wrench to remove this bolt.
Next remove the brake line. You must remove the 'C'
clip on the strut housing and the bolt on the caliper.
Then hang the brake line up with a string or wire so that
it is out of the way and not dripping.
Next remove the speed sensor bolt. You do not need
to remove the sensor itself, there is plenty of slack in the speed sensor
cable.
The four top strut bolts can now be loosened.
The large bottom bolts can now be removed.
Now the hub can move out of the way.
The top strut bolts can now be removed, and the whole spring/strut/strut
housing assembly can come out.
If there are stock springs installed, you will need to use a spring compressor
to compress the spring so that it doesn't fly off when you remove the strut
bolt (19mm) at the top of the strut bar. If you have loosened this bolt
earlier on, great! Otherwise you will have to hold the assembly in a
vice while removing this bolt. I've found that the Eibach springs I had
installed didn't need to be compressed. Please be careful as there can
be a large amount of energy stored in the springs.
Now comes the hard part. Removing the gland nut can be somewhat difficult. I
recommended soaking it in WD40, or some other penetrating lubricant. Then
remove it with a pipe wrench. If this doesn't work, you can try to put
the assembly in a vice, with the vice holding the gland nut. Then use
some extensions to twist the assembly.
Pour a small amount of oil into the housing, and install
the new strut. The oil should take up the space between the strut
and the housing. Make sure not to over-fill it since you will need
some space to tighten down the gland nut.
Install a new boot.
Install the spring. Line up the 'larger end' with
the bottom.
Clean out the bearing and re-lubricate them.
Line up the top strut mount so that the 'OUT' faces the
part of the strut housing that points toward the outside of the car (the
part of the strut housing with the large bolts). It also must be
lined up with the top of the strut bar as shown.
You may need to use a spring compressor in order to tighten
the 19mm bolt. If you cannot tighten the 19mm bolt to the torque
specifications, you can install the assembly, lower the car down, and
then tighten the bolt. Point the top piece (four studs) with cut-out
toward the back of the car.
Install the assembly and just hand tighten the top four
bolts.
Tighten the lower two bolts to 180ft-lbs.
Re-install the brake line, C-clip, and bolt for the speed
sensor line. Tighten the top four strut assembly bolts to specification.
Adjustable KYB AGXs:
